At the beginning of the 19th century, Hans Wilsdorf – the founder of Rolex established a high-quality lower priced brand, named Tudor. The name decision was influenced by...More
At the beginning of the 19th century, Hans Wilsdorf – the founder of Rolex established a high-quality lower priced brand, named Tudor. The name decision was influenced by one of England’s dynasties, the Tudors, honouring in this way the country in which he opened his first watch company. This year at Baselworld, Tudor released a chronograph with diver ambitions – Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono. A nice surprise was the announcement of the calibre MT5813, a collaboration with Breitling. We had the pleasure to do a hands-on at Basel.
First of all, it was the very first Tudor chronograph to use the Breitling B01 chronograph movement, which was a startling move to say the least, and one which few if any outside Breitling and Tudor saw coming. The movement is an excellent one technically; many in the industry praised its overall engineering and watchmaker-friendly design when it first debuted, and all of the excellent technical properties of this modern, column wheel, vertical clutch controlled chronograph are obviously present in the Tudor version, but it was still a bit of a surprise.
Secondly, there was the design, which combines elements of both vintage diver and chronograph watches – there are plenty of watches that combine features of both types of watches, but there seemed to be some feeling among vintage Tudor purists that these design domains should remain distinct from each other. best replica tourbillon watches
And finally, of course, there was the question of the hands, and whether or not the snowflake hour hand was a less-than-terrific idea for a chronograph. Let’s take a closer look at the watch, and how it fared during A Week On The Wrist. jacob and co replica
The first impression I got when I picked up the Replica Tudor Black Bay Chronograph at Baselworld was of impressive solidity, if a fair amount of heft too. The case and bracelet both have a very attractive sculpted quality with the bevels on the lugs doing much to add some elegance to what otherwise might be a somewhat stolid design. That touch as well as the details added by such features as the knurling on the screw down chronograph pushers, as well as the engraved tachymeter scale on the (non-rotating) bezel help keep the watch feeling pleasantly overbuilt without seeming excessively static. jaeger lecoultre reverso tribute replica
The dial and hands are as you would expect from Tudor/Rolex: very cleanly done technically, extremely legible, and in general quite well executed. If you like the snowflake hands on the non-chronograph Black Bay models, you’ll like them here (leaving aside for the moment the question of the degree to which the snowflake hour hand may obscure the 45-minute chronograph register). The dial has a subtle grained finish that extends into the sunken sub-dials and again, the texture helps keep the whole composition feeling warm and approachable.
The bracelet and clasp are amazing. There is absolutely no play whatsoever in between the links, and operating the fliplock clasp gives the same pleasurable sense of interaction with a precision piece of machinery that, say, operating the film advance lever on a vintage Leica provides. Unlike many clasps this one feels specifically engineered not just for functional excellence but for tactile pleasure as well (of course to some extent the two go hand in hand). Thanks to the solidity of the bracelet the watch though slightly on the heavier side sits very comfortably on the wrist, with a sense of mass to be sure, but mass kept well controlled. I’m reluctant to say “built like a tank” both because it is a cliché and because there have been some pretty terrible tanks (Kugelpanzer ball tank, I’m looking at you) but in this case the cliché is apt. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Replica
During the week I wore the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph 79360N, I never ceased to find it an extremely satisfying watch to wear in many respects. It kept excellent time (gaining about one and a half seconds per day, which is Superlative Chronometer level stuff, thanks to the well-designed and well-set-up regulating system) and was a comfortable fit with everything from jeans and a t-shirt to a button up shirt and jacket, though the thickness of the Black Bay Chronograph was a bit of a challenge even for the fairly loose-fitting cuffs of a Brooks Brothers shirt (case dimensions are 41mm x 14.9mm). tudor black bay replica
Stylistically, the Black Bay Chronograph is a mixture of elements from both vintage Tudor dive watch and chronograph production, including the riveted link bracelet seen on some Tudor Submariners (and of course the snowflake hour hand) as well as the general design of the screw down pushers, crown, and case guards from the Tudor Oysterdate chronographs. The combination works well from a design standpoint, and there’s nothing aesthetically dissonant about seeing these design cues together, with all the pieces contributing to the overall sport-vintage vibe. a. lange sohne triple split replica